Most people heading to Tokyo will always be looking out for the young, fashionable and hip crowds around Shibuya and Harajuku which are popular tourist locations. But if you are wanting to find where the older generation flock then Sugamo is the place. The street is much more crowded than Harajuku but everyone is basically over 60 and you'll be fighting for space amongst the wheelchairs, strollers, walking sticks and frames. And believe me the place is full of action and excitement amongst the elderly. The time I was there I watched a stretcher with medical staff on either side being wheeled up the street with the staff blowing whistles trying to cut a path between the crowd, to get to and I can only imagine, is some one who took a turn for the worst whilst shopping. In addition I saw another older lady do a massive dive into the pavement after losing her footing on the curbside. It was great to see the other elderly come to her rescue and assist her. Thankfully she wasn't hurt and proceeded on her way.
The elderly shopping days are held on the 4th, 14th or 24th of each month as the number 4 has special significance for Japanese. Sugamo is located on the Yamonte line and is the second stop from Ikebukuro heading towards Ueno. When you get out of the station on the days of the street festival just follow the crowd. The traffic cops are out in force but I doubt for any unruly behavior but to ensure the elderly cross the road before the lights change.
The street is famous for its red undies and there are many stores selling them. These are not your slinky briefs these are the granny versions. For the Japanese they are known as aka pantsu and are a must have item. The underpants are known for warmth and apparently provide vigor.
Another great thing is the free food sample tasting thats available from many of the vendors. However, one that I'll leave up to you is the grasshopper or inago apparently a delight but you won't find the younger generation chewing on'em they will be at Harajuku with a crepe in the hand.
This lady I reckon completely forgot about the hair rollers being in her hair but such things are not a big surprise in Sugamo.
So if your looking for something a little different and not really on the list of tourist destinations head down to Sugamo.
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